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Roofing materials

Roof underlayThe layer you only get one good chance at.

Roof underlay is the sheet laid under the roofing to catch water that gets past it and to manage condensation. E2/AS1 requires it under all longrun and pressed metal tile roofs, and under tiles in many cases. Because it's hidden, the time to get it right is a re-roof, when the old roofing is off anyway.

Updated 28 October 2026 · Written by the Find My Roofer team · How we check our facts

What underlay does

Think of it as the second line of defence. Wind-driven rain, condensation forming under a metal roof and the odd drip at a lap all land on the underlay instead of your ceiling insulation, and it carries that water down and out.

Because it sits under the roofing, it can only be properly replaced when the roofing comes off, so it rarely gets the attention it deserves.

When it's required

Under E2/AS1, all pressed metal tile roofing and all profiled metal longrun must have underlay. The Acceptable Solution's underlays are paper-based, R1 heavyweight kraft or R2 self-supporting kraft to NZS 2295, and it says metal roofs need paper-based underlay.

Tiles vary. Some double-profile concrete tiles may go without it at 20 degrees or more, but E2/AS1 requires underlay wherever a spreader discharges water onto a tile roof and in Very High and Extra High wind zones. Monier's flat Horizon tiles must have it, and a tiled roof with underlay needs anti-ponding boards.

Synthetic underlays such as Kingspan Thermakraft's Covertek range sit outside that paper-based category. Covertek 407 is covered by its own BRANZ appraisal and CodeMark certificate instead.

Kraft paper or synthetic?

Kraft paper (E2/AS1)Synthetic (Covertek 407 example)
How it's acceptedNamed in the Acceptable SolutionIts own BRANZ appraisal and CodeMark
Low pitchesLaid horizontally below 10 degreesNot suitable below 3 degrees
SupportR1 fully supported; R2 spans up to 1.2 mAs its appraisal sets out
Exposure before the roof goes onCover it promptlyNo more than 30 days of weather or UV
Unlined sheds and garagesThe metal roofing Code of Practice says underlay isn't requiredKingspan limits its absorbent synthetics to lined buildings since 1 July 2025

Laying it properly

E2/AS1 wants underlay lapped at least 150 mm. Under Gerard pressed metal tiles, BRANZ says it's laid tightly across the roof, and a skillion roof needs a ventilated air gap of at least 25 mm under the tiles.

Insulation shouldn't touch it. Kingspan Thermakraft notes a mandatory 25 mm minimum gap between insulation and underlay, and says bulk insulation can be squashed by up to 62% at the edges of a 10-degree roof. A roofer and insulation installer who talk to each other avoid that. E2/AS1 also notes that solvent in freshly LOSP-treated timber can affect the bitumen in paper underlays.

DRIDEX, the roof with its own fleece

COLORSTEEL DRIDEX has a fleece on its underside that soaks up condensation as it forms and lets it go later. NZ Steel says it replaces separate underlay in many applications, and its warranty actually requires it to go on without underlay. NZ Steel accredits DRIDEX installers, and the warranty excludes UV damage to the fleece and poor ventilation.

What makes underlay work bigger or smaller

On its own, underlay is rarely a job; it's part of a re-roof. What changes the work is whether the roof needs plywood (some tray profiles do), whether a skillion needs a ventilated gap, how the insulation sits, and whether the old underlay has let water damage the framing.

Gerard's warranty doesn't cover underlay or other third-party products, so the underlay maker's terms and the roofer's workmanship are what stand behind it.

Questions for a re-roof quote

  • Which underlay are you using, and is it accepted for my roof type and pitch?
  • Kraft paper or synthetic, and why?
  • How will you keep the gap between underlay and insulation?
  • For a tiled roof, are anti-ponding boards included?

What you can check

You can

  • Look in the roof space with a torch for sagging, torn or stained underlay, stepping only on the joists
  • Check for drips or damp insulation on cold mornings
  • Mention any roof-space damp to whoever quotes

Leave to a roofer

  • Replacing underlay during a re-roof
  • Fixing laps and support
  • Ventilation for skillion roofs

Our advice on underlay

On a re-roof, we'd treat new underlay as part of the job, not an extra, and ask exactly which product is going on and why. If there's damp in the roof space now, we'd find out whether it's a leak or condensation before anyone quotes, because the fixes are different. Condensation or a leak? helps you tell.

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Questions

Straight answers.

Does a metal roof need underlay?
On a house built to E2/AS1, yes: it requires underlay under all profiled metal longrun and pressed metal tiles. The exception is a product like COLORSTEEL DRIDEX, whose warranty requires it to go on without one.
Can underlay be replaced without a re-roof?
Not properly. It sits under the roofing, so replacing it means lifting the roofing, which is why a re-roof is the time to get it right.

Where this information comes from

Every fact and rule on this page comes from the sources above, checked on the dates shown. How we write and check these pages.

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